"The King's speech" fashion

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Noćas sam u jednom dahu odgledala film "The King's speech" i ostala fascinirana modom i kostimima. Toliko su dobri da se stvarno osećate kao da ste u Londonu 30-ih godina. Onda sam danas obavila malo istraživanje o dizajneru kostima i evo teksta :)

"Kraljev govor" (The King’s speech) proglašen je najboljim filmom na 83. dodeli Oskara. Iako je imao 12 nominacija, osvojio je 4 Oskara, ali i to je veliki uspeh. Ovaj film govori o kralju Džordžu VI koji nasleđuje svog brata, nakon što se ovaj odrekne prestola. Međutim, novi kralj ima veliki problem, od malena muca i ne može da drži javne govore. Tada njegova supruga pronalazi čoveka koji može da mu pomogne. “Kraljev govor” bio je nominovan za najbolje kostime. Dizajnerka kostima, Jenny Beavan kaže da je za film koristila većinom garderobu koja je stvarno iz perioda 30-ih godina prošlog veka. Ova dizajnerka ima 9 nominacija za Oskara, a poznata je po radu na garderobi za britanske filmove “Razum i osećajnost”, “Gosford Park”, “Ana i Kralj” i “Šerlok Holms”. Jenny kaže da uživa kada oživljava vintidž odeću. Originalnu odeću iz 30-ih, kapute, šešire i odela moguće je iznajmiti. Neka odela su pojeli moljci, ali su ipak prepravljena i korišćena, recimo ono koje nosi Guy Pearce kao Edvard VIII. Ostali glumci su nosili pomešano novu i staru garderobu i svaki od njih predstavljao je veliki izazov za kostimografkinju. Ona je sebi dala i malo oduška, pa je Helenu Bonham Carter, koja glumi Kraljicu Majku oblačila u tamniju garderobu, iako je ova za života obožavala pastelne i svetle boje. Beavenova sarađuje sa Helenom Bonham Carter već više od 20 godina i kaže da ova glumica odlično nosi šešire, a to se vidi i u “Kraljevom govoru”. Neki od njih su autentični, a neki su pravljeni posebno za film. Iako su imali ograničen budžet i nisu mogli da prište mnogo modnih kombinacija, dizajnerka kaže da je promenom šešira menjan celokupni izgled. Geoffrey Rush, koji glumi kraljevog terapeuta, imao je 4 odela u filmu i Dženi kaže da je to normalno za čoveka iz tog doba. Čak ni kraljevi nisu imali mnogo odela. Običaj da se ima mnogo odela počeo je tek 70-ih godina. Najveću muku dizajnerka je imala sa Colinom Firthom, kao kraljem Džordžom VI. Kralj, koga su u porodici zvali Berti, bio je vrlo mršav. “Nisu ga dobro hranili, bio je mali i slabašan” – kaže Bivenova. Kolin Firt je zgodan muškarac, ali je krupniji od kralja i sve vreme se trudio da bude što mršaviji. Većina kostima pozajmljena je iz “Kospropa” (Cosprop), britanske kuće za iznajmljivanje kostima čiji je vlasnik dizajner John Bright.

Iako je ostao bez Oskara za najbolje kostime, “Kraljev govor” osvojio je onaj najvažniji, za najbolji film. Svako ko ga bude gledao osetiće duh Velike Britanije iz 1930. godine, a za to su kostimi najzaslužniji.

Last night I've finally watched the winner of Oscars, "The King's speech" and I was thrilled by costumes. They are perfect! You really have a feeling like you are in London in 1930's. So, I decided to find out who made them and here is what I found. 

"The King's Speech," in the hunt for 12 Oscars, tells a story from more than seven decades ago — with the actors dressed, in many cases, in clothing just as old. "A lot of them were vintage," said costume designer Jenny Beavan of the movie's outfits. Beavan, a nine-time Oscar nominee, is the go-to costumer for British period films, having worked on numerous Merchant-Ivory films as well as "Sense and Sensibility," "Gosford Park," "Anna and the King," and most recently "Sherlock Holmes" and its upcoming sequel. Beavan said that she loves making vintage clothing live again. For the "King's Speech" historical period (primarily the 1930s), much original clothing is available for rental. Guy Pearce, for example, wore almost exclusively vintage clothing in the film as King Edward VIII — "they were incredibly moth-eaten, but we mended them."

Other actors wore a mixture of vintage and newly constructed clothing, with each character presenting a challenge. For example, Beavan said, in real life Queen Elizabeth (played in the film by Helena Bonham Carter) seemed to favor bright colors, but for the movie her clothing was made more quiet. "We found it much better to darken the colors on her clothes. You believed in her more." Geoffrey Rush, playing King George VI's speech therapist, Lionel Logue, was given a "working wardrobe" of four suits: two tweed, one plain wool, one pinstripe. This, Beavan said, would be typical for a professional man of that era, explaining that even royalty at the time didn't have vast wardrobes. "This whole thing now of having masses of clothing is completely modern, from the '70s — people started to get lots of clothes and stuffing their wardrobes. And Colin Firth, as the king, had a specific worry: George VI, known as "Bertie" in his family, was unusually thin. "He wasn't fed properly, he was very small and slight," Beavan said. "Colin is such a slim man, not an ounce of flesh, but he's a better-built male than George. He was terrifically concerned about looking as thin as possible." Most of the vintage clothing in the film — and in Beavan's other films — comes from Cosprop, a British costume-rental house run by designer John Bright. 

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